I'll put the 3PDT true bypass in it, change a few caps to give it a better frequency response, and probably tweak the tone circuit slightly.Can any of you help me put an approximate date on this, please?
They usually start with 137 which is the manufacturer (137 = CTS), then the next digits are the year and week. That and a Boss TU-2 will make a nice small pedal board that I can thow in the back of the amp. If we can believe the pot date codes, it's an early 80's. Do the new JD D units have the germanium 1N270 diodes?For example, 137 7903 would be a CTS pot, made in the 3rd week of 1979. - Dennis Hi Dennis, Sorry, should've been more clear on that PO business Hmmm, LED. The one I had did not have an LED, so it had only the block font just like yours. Suffice it to say that my friend's script Distortion didn't have an LED either. But as for tone, it's been a loooong time, so who knows how that has colored my audio memory. I'm curious what you think of it, and mine is loooong gone now. (This one does.) I got a chance to try out the pedal with this rig in my garage yesterday: '68 Silverface Vibrolux Reverb 1960 Historic Reissue 03122 Boss TU-2 MXR Distortion First of all, just the guitar into the Vibrolux is a pretty awesome combination.Sometimes there are only 6 digits, for example 304731 would be 304 (stackpole) 7=1947 or 1957, 31st week. Other manufacturer codes are : 106 : Allen Bradley 134 : Centralab 137 : CTS 140 : Clarostat 220 : Jensen (speakers) 304 : Stackpole 328 : Utah/Oxford speakers 381 : Bourns 465 : Oxford speakers 285 : Rola 391 : Altec-Lansing 649 : Electro-voice 1098 : Pyle 67 : Eminence On many Japanese effects there are no date codes on the pots, but there are usually date codes on the chips and sometimes on the capacitors. If you see 7932 on the bottom of a chip, you can be pretty sure it is a date code for 1979. With the amp volume around 2, the sound is clean and crisp.My old MXR analog delay is too hard to open up to get at the pot date codes, how can I date it? But here are some rough dates for them: 1 output: 1977 - 1979, SAD1024 chips x 3 2 outputs : 1979? As you can see, the I/O jacks and switch are chassis mounted. Edward Can't help you on the specific date, but can tell you it's an early 80s to later ... And my buddy had the earlier one with script "MXR Distortion" and it undoubtedly sounded better than mine. Turn the volume up to 4 or 5 and the sound is a loud, controllable crunch.The PCB has just the LM741 op-amp and a few discretes. If it can be believed, those pots are CTS from the early 80s. So maybe the JD rubber knob cover is a red herring? By the way, the pictures were taken of the pedal in the condition in which I received it. -Dennis Can't help you on the specific date, but can tell you it's an early 80s to later ... And my buddy had the earlier one with script "MXR Distortion" and it undoubtedly sounded better than mine. It "looked" the same inside (wasn't really into electronics much then so I couldn't decipher the nuances), but it definitely sounded better than mine ... Now stomp on the MXR and you get the next level of dirt.It "looked" the same inside (wasn't really into electronics much then so I couldn't decipher the nuances), but it definitely sounded better than mine ... The overall combination of guitar, pickups, D , amp, and speakers was somewhat directional.If I stood in the right place, I'd get instant harmonic overtone sustain.Move away from the sweet spot, and it would die right out. The bass on the amp needed to be set lower too, else it got too muddy.You can see I have the distortion level on the pedal dialed back, so as to add just a bit more clipping at higher levels. The tone doesn't compare to my bigger room rig, but I think it's unfair to compare the two (open back 2x10 vs closed back 4x12). The goal was to be able to fit everything in the back of the amp, then only have to carry it and a guitar.It will get a test with the full band tonight, and I expect it will do just fine.Start communicating today via our advanced messaging features.